Change “Date Created” using EXIF “Date Captured”

If you are like me, you tend to use Lightroom or other 3rd Party photo editor on your RAW images and then export the hi-res .jpg to a folder and then import the images to iPhoto or Photos on Mac (El Capitain).  This creates a problem with the “Date Created” info on the file.  Instead of showing the date and time the image was captured, it shows the date and time the image was exported to .JPG; then when you import the photos to iPhoto, they are not placed in the proper order within your library.

For example:

I went on a vacation back in August 2015 but I did not have time to edit the images until December 2015.  After exporting the images to iPhoto, it considers them images take in December.  So how do you correct this?

After much searching and many offers from Apple Store Products… I found a free and very powerful software solution.

XNViewMP0.68 >>>Download HERE>>> OR>>>> Download HERE

It’s very simple to use.

Step 1:  Download and install the software

Step 2: In XNViewMP, go to the folder that has the images that you need to change the “Date Created” or “Date Modified”.

Step 3:  Select All images (Command + A)

Step 4: Click on “Tools” in the toolbar.  Select “Change Timestamp”

Step 5: In the “Use” settings, select the 3rd option and change the drop down menu to “EXIF: Date Taken”.  In the “Change” settings, select the 1st option “File: Modified Date”.  Ensure that the info on the right is correct.

Step 6: Click “Write All”.  Once the operation is complete and you have verified that the data has been written correctly by going into finder and using “Get Info” on the images, then you can Close XNViewMP.

Step 7: Drag and drop your newly modified image files into iPhoto (Photos)

 

Hope that helps some of you that are having this challenge with date time stamps.

Clean up iTunes

Clean up your iTunes Library… NOW!

 

Let’s cut to the chase.  We all have horribly organized iTunes libraries, that’s why we love services like rdio and songza.

I’m going to show you how to reclaim your estate in music and be proud to have a collection that even Sony would be jealous of.

 

1 . How to delete or restore lost files in iTunes 12 (11.0.1)

(iTunes can’t find the original file location and give the error “The song “X” could not be used because the original file could not be found. Would you like to locate it?”.  You can remove all of these items from your library, unless you want to search and locate them > stay tuned)

Make sure you perform this process first before moving to Section 2.

Here we go:

In the music section.

Create a new playlist called “Good Files”

Select/highlight your entire music library.

Drag all the highlighted rows into the playlist called “Good Files”

(Only the files that can be located will be transferred inside the playlist called “Good Files”, the files that iTunes can not locate will not be transferred.  Now we need to locate those library files only, so we can delete them)

Create a Smart Playlist called “Bad Files”

Match the following rule:

-Playlist Is “Music”

-Playlist Is Not “Good Files”

> OK

Now you will have an entire list of all the songs in your library that iTunes can’t find when it tries to play them in a playlist called “Bad Files”

You have 2 options:

1.  Remove these library anomalies.

2.  Locate each missing song, and then remove the songs you can’t locate.

 

1.  To delete songs that iTunes can’t find from your iTunes library

-Select / highlight all songs in the playlist “Bad Files”

– Hold “Alt/Option” and “Command” Key then hit “Delete”

 

2.  To locate as many songs as you can

– Play the song you want to locate that is missing its file

– Click “Locate” when prompted.

– Find the location of the missing song file.

– Repeat this until you are numb in the eyes, then hit yourself with a hammer and proceed to step 1. (If you have 50+ songs to locate)

 

2.  Delete duplicate songs in iTunes

– Click “View” (in task bar)

– Hold “Alt/Option” key and click “Show Exact Duplicates”  _otherwise known as “Show Exact Duplicates, when you don’t hold “Alt”

-Now you have a list of all the songs with the same name AND the same time.

-Select all Songs and create a new playlist called “Exact Duplicates”

Since we have all the duplicated songs with the exact same time in one playlist now, we can start to sort through them

To sort through the songs by Bit Rate, Sample Rate, or file size…or anything else you’d like …. follow these steps

-Create a new smart playlist and name is “Selected”

Match the following rule:

Playlist is Music

Playlist is Exact Duplicates

Bit Rate is greater than 128kbps

OR

Sample Rate is greater than 44.100 kHz

OR

File Size is greater than 2.0 MB

OR

…….well, you get the picture.

 

Another way is to just click on the Column Headers and sort by Size, Bit Rate, etc.

Now that you have a smart playlist with the criteria that you want to sort for, you need to decide which files to destroy.

You will have to go one by one and select/highlight the ones you don’t want and then “Alt”+”Command” + “Delete”

Poof!  Gone.

You are now Duplicate Free!

 

 

 

Logitech G13

Logitech G13 for editing… Reviewed

I have been working for many months to improve the Logitech G13 keyboard settings to work with Lightroom, Photoshop, and now, iPhoto. I’ve had so much fun with this project and so much positive feedback and demand for the original script settings, that I thought I could serve many more photographers and designers by creating a website strictly for the script. I decided to name the system, the script, the settings…. Lightroompad.

You can now get much more information and a more dedicated script for your specific requirements.

If you want to edit faster with less eye strain and wrist pain while in front of the computer for hours, then the Logitech G13 and the Lightroompad script is for you.  The Lightroompad settings are specifically configured to help you get the most out of your creativity and your time.  It has helped me and our photographers edit faster, and that makes me want to share this product with everyone.

If you would like to purchase the script for Lightroom or Photoshop, and save yourself at least 8 hours of programming, you can buy it from me HERE!

GET THE LOGITECH G13 LIGHTROOM SCRIPT for $39.99 $19.99 (1/2 Price Sale!!)

 

 

Visit the all new Lightroompad website for more options HERE

Lightroompad

Lightroompad launches for sale this week at lightroompad.com

 www.lightroompad.com

 

Vantec NexStar MX External Hard Drive RAID JBOD eSATA HDD Enclosure

NexStar MX…The Unofficial Manual on RAID

 

 

If you’re like me, you’ve purchased Vantec’s NexStar MX to use for data storage and redundancy with it’s RAID 1 function, and it’s super fast eSATA connection.

A few problems first present itself when first working with the NexStar MX.

1.  The user manual must have been written as a grade 9 Korean-English computer project because the instructions on how to do the most simple procedure (reset) is incorrect, and has been since they first published the manual and still show it online here.

2.  There are no clear instructions on what the status light indicators mean.

3.  There are no clear instructions on how to go about rebuilding the RAID 1 drives when one drive fails.

4.  There are no clear instructions on how to format or initialize the drives before use.

 

So, after many hours of working on this device and working back and forth with the technical support staff at Vantec, I’ve been able to come up with a few solid answers to those dilemmas.

Here we go:

1.  To Reset the NexStar MX follow these directions:

  1. Make sure your computer is OFF and that none of the blue lights on the NexStar MX are blinking, then turn off the NexStar MX enclosure from the power switch on the back.  Wait at least 20 seconds after the lights stop blinking to ensure the drives stop before shutting off the power.
  2. Once your power is off.  Install the hard drives as per your required configuration (as shown in the manual on Pg.6 – 8).  Note, the bay on the RIGHT (closest to the jumper switch) is always the SOURCE DRIVE.  This is important when rebuilding a failed RAID drive!  DO NOT PUT THE ENCLOSURE BACK ON!  YOU NEED TO RESET THE DEVICE FIRST!!!    (This is the source for 99% of people pulling their hair out when installing their drives for the first time…so I’ve read)
  3. Time to reset the device using the settings you need.  Refer to the manual regarding the jumper switches and toggle them to the appropriate settings for your application.  Once you have done this it’s time to reset the device.  With the device still powered off and the computer still off – Push and hold the reset button while you turn on the power – Continue to hold the reset button for 20-30 seconds (or until the lights stop blinking on the front), then let go.  You should see a quick blink of lights and then hear the drives spinning.  To make sure that you did this correctly, go through the reset process again.  But wait at least 10 seconds with no light blinking activity before shutting off the power switch.  By resetting the device twice, you will ensure that it’s properly done.  Now you can move forward.
  4. Once the drive lights stop blinking, you can turn off the device and continue the enclosure installation.  Ensure all screws are put in place.  You can skip this step (as I did to make sure that the setup was done correctly)
  5. Power on your computer and check out the result.
2.  What the indicator lights mean (this is a cut and paste from Vantec’s Customer support):
Power = Power to unit
HDD1/HDD2 =
-Rapid Flashing/solid = Hard drive activity or RAID 1 rebuild
-Not lit = no hard drive activity
-blinks at a constant rate = the hard drive has failed
peripheral

 

 3.  How to rebuild your RAID set:

  1. Identify which drive has failed.  The top blue light is for the right drive and the bottom light is for the left drive.  If you’re using a Mac, your computer will tell you that your drive has failed and that you should backup your files and reformat your hard drive.  This is an indication from MAC that your drive is not perfect and does not mean that you have lost all of your data.  It just recognizes that something is wrong with the drive.  According to Vantec, the failed drive will have a consistent blinking light.
  2. If your computer is telling you that the drive has failed, but the light is not blinking consistently for either drive, then you need to test which drive has failed.  This is where it can get tricky and dangerous (because your data is not duplicated anymore).  This is how you would test your drives using the NexStar MX:
    1. Shut down your computer.
    2. Wait 30 seconds, then power off the NexStar MX.
    3. Remove the drive on the left and set it aside in a safe and low electrostatic location (anti-static spray is always useful)
    4. Set the jumper on the NexStar MX to individual mode (Jumper 1 in ON position only)
    5. Push and continue to hold the reset button for 20 seconds after you turn on the power switch, then let go.
    6. Make sure that the reset worked by turning off the power (after waiting 20 seconds to make sure the blue lights don’t turn on) and then follow step 5 again.
    7. Now that you’ve reset the device to individual mode, you can start the computer.
    8. Once booted up, the drive should show up on your computer.  If it doesn’t show up at all or there is an error message, or it tells you that the disk needs to be formatted or initialized…DON’T DO ANYTHING!!!  You must test the other drive first to make sure that the jumper reset was done correctly or you could be formatting the working drive.
    9. If it recognizes the drive and you see all of your data and no error messages came up…this is your working drive.  If not, continue to step 10.
    10. Shut down the computer.  Turn off the NexStar MX as instructed above.
    11. Remove the drive from the right bay and put it in a safe place.
    12. Install the other drive into the Right bay.  No need for a reset at this time.
    13. Start up the computer.
    14. If the drive does not show up or you get an error message with this drive as well, then it means that you did not reset the jumper settings properly to individual mode.  Restart this procedure from the beginning.
    15. If the drive shows up and you can see your data, then this is the working drive (source drive).
    16. Now that you know which drive is the source drive, you need to change the jumper setting back to RAID 1 (Switch 1&2 ON)
    17. Shut down the computer.  Then turn off the NexStar MX. Then change the jumper to RAID 1 with only the source drive in the device on the right side.  Then press and hold the reset button while turning on the power and hold it for 20 seconds and let go.  You will see a blink and then the bottom light should blink consistently.  Time to install the new drive to replace the failed one.
  3. Now that you know which drive has failed and your device should be in RAID 1 jumper setting, you need to turn off the NexStar Power and remove the failed drive (if you haven’t already done so…with the computer OFF!)
  4. Install the new target drive into the left bay and the source drive to the right bay (closest to the jumper switches).  The new drive DOES NOT NEED TO BE FORMATTED beforehand to rebuild the RAID set.
  5. Hold the reset button and turn on the NexStar MX and continue to hold the reset button for 20 seconds after.  Let go of the reset.
  6. You should see both lights blink a bit and then turn off.  Once they turn off, you can start your computer.
  7. Once the computer has started, both blue lights on the NexStar MX should remain solid (or blink frequently, but not flash consistently as in a failed hard drive would).
  8. If the lights are solid, then you have successfully started the rebuild process.  I’m told by Vantec that the computer needs to remain on during the rebuild process for it to work properly, but I found that it works much better when the computer is off or the drive is completely disconnected from the computer; this is because when the drive is connected to the computer and the computer is running, it will read from the source drive and this will slow down the rebuild process.  They say that it takes 6-7 hours to rebuild 1TB of data.  I found that it took just about 20 hours to rebuild a 2TB drive.

4.  How to format or initialize the drives before use with the NexStar MX

You will notice that upon installation of a new drive, the computer will not recognize the drive if you want to RAID the drives.  You need to initialize or format the drives first (except for when you are rebuilding a target RAID drive).

To initialize the drive, you must put the device in individual mode with one hard drive in the right bay.  Start up the computer.  It will recognize the drive and you are able to format it.  Shut down the computer.  Turn off the NexStar MX.  Remove the drive.  Install the other drive in the right bay.  Start up the computer and format this drive.  Shut down the computer.  Turn off the NexStar MX.  Install the other formatted drive into the left bay.  Change the jumper setting to RAID 1.  Reset the device (as described above).  Start the computer.  Voila!

 

If you are using a PC or a Pre-Lion Mac and are trying to rebuild your RAID set and want to know it’s progress, you can use the software found at Silicon Image.

Silicon Image Support Page

  • Select SiI5723 Storage Processor
  • Then Configuration Manager
  • Then your desired OS (Doesn’t work on LION because it’s a Power PC application)

 

 

I sincerely hope that this helps anyone having issues with Vantec’s NexStar MX and that the company wakes up in the future when writing their instruction manuals and giving information on their website.  A technology company should not have to rely on it’s customers to supply its other customers with support.  But I’m glad I could help, if I’ve done so.

Scosche solBAT II Solar Battery Charger

Reserve iPhone Power

In planning our honeymoon to Thailand, there is much to be said about the peace of mind that comes from knowing that you will have ample power supply should you need it.  My main concern was to always have battery power on my iPhone should we run into a situation where we will be unable to recharge the device for more than a day.  Safety first!

I decided a 2 step approach would be best.

1.  Extend the life of the iPhone with a built in battery pack case.

2.  Have reserve power in a separate solar charging device.

 

For the first part, I wanted to get a power supply case that was slim, light, and easy to use.  After much searching and deliberation, I decided on the Mophie Juice Pack Air

Mophie Juice Pack AirI bought the Mophie Juice Pack Air from Walmart for just $60.  When you take into consideration that most iPhone cases cost $30+ then you quickly realize that this is a great product for the price.  The pack extends the iPhone battery life by giving it a charge whenever you want.  You can put the case in “stand by” mode, and it will not drain the Mophie to charge the iPhone until you want it to.  Or, you can use the Mophie power juice before tapping into your iPhone charge because when the Mophie Juice Pack is turned on, the iPhone uses that power first, just like it would if it were plugged into the wall.

Overall, I feel very confident that I will not be stranded without iPhone battery life and that the $60 investment is well worth it, even for day to day life.

 

However, should I get stranded somewhere long enough that both the Mophie and iPhone battery are drained completely, I can give them both a boost of charge with the Scosche solBAT II – Solar powered backup battery and charger.

Scosche solBAT II Solar Battery ChargerThis Lithium Ion Solar Powered portable battery charger is fantastic.  It allows you to plug in any usb powered device and charge it.  You can charge the solBAT with a usb for a rapid charge (2 hrs) or leave it in direct sunlight to recharge the internal battery (4-5 days) or power usb devices simultaneously.  This handy battery pack uses lithium ion, so you don’t have to worry about waiting for it to completely drain before charging it again (like NiMH batteries – offered with the KODAK Solar Charger KS100-C+2).  Plus it has a strong 1500mA battery with 500mA output to quickly charge the device that needs it (camera, phone, pda).  This item is only $30 at Walmart vs. $40 for the Kodak.  It comes with a handy ring clip to strap onto your backpack, and a hard case holder with suction cups so that you can keep it on the windshield of your car so that it charges continuously and is always ready to give you power in times of need.

 

Overall, these two devices combined will allow me to use my iPhone for several days without worrying that it will die.

 

Well worth the $90 in total!

Apple TV

Apple TV Home System

I just setup an amazing home entertainment and data storage system…for the entire house. After several hours of research and puttering online, I’ve been able to create the perfect system to house all of my photos, music, and videos using Apple TV.

First, this is the hardware I am using:

46″ Samsung LED TV
Bose Cinemate GS Series II Soundsystem
Apple TV 2G
Apple Macbook x 2
Apple Airport Extreme Base Station
D-Link DNS-321 NAS drive with 2x 2TB RAID1 hard drives
Seagate FreeAgent GoFlex Desk 3 TB USB 2.0 External Hard Drive

Now here’s how to set everything up:

SETUP THE TV SYSTEM

  1. After hanging the TV on the wall and hooking up the Bose system, setup the Apple TV by connecting the optical audio directly to the Bose and the HDMI directly to the Samsung TV.  Turn on Apple TV to make sure it works.

INSTALL AIRPORT EXPRESS AND THE D-LINK DNS-321 NAS MEDIA STORAGE

  1. Connect the Airport Extreme base station to your modem or router with an ethernet cable.
  2. Setup your Airport Extreme wireless mode to “create a wireless network” so that your apple TV can connect to the network.
  3. Install the D-Link DNS-321
    1. Install the 2TB drives in the D-Link DNS-321
    2. Connect the power cables and connect the ethernet cable to the Airport Extreme
    3. If working on a PC, just insert the CD and follow the directions on the screen to setup the RAID 1 settings
    4. If working on a Mac with OSX 10.5 or later, you will see the D-Link drive appear in the SHARED location on your finder screen.  The icon will look like a little computer screen with the label dlink-6a201b (or something like that).  When you click on that, you should see the folder “web_page”.  Click on that and then “goweb.htm”.  This will launch the NAS setup screen.  When the username and password are required, just type “admin” for user and leave the password field blank.
    5. To setup the RAID drive, click on TOOLS in the top menu.  Then click on RAID in the side menu.  Then click “set raid type and re-format”.  Select Raid 1 so that you will have a backup disk of everything that you put onto the hard drive.  It is up to you whether you want to select the “auto rebuild configuration”.  I selected to have the auto-rebuild configuration on, so that if one drive ever fails (indicated by an amber light on the unit) then I just need to insert a Apple Extended (journaled) formatted drive and the device will automatically rebuild the new drive.
    6. Now that you have your drive Raid-1 configured, it’s time to allow the drive to be seen over the network. Keep in mind that I had my computer ethernet cable connected to my modem, which is connected to my Airport Extreme by ethernet.  The d-link NAS is connected to the Airport Extreme by ethernet. This step will make the NAS available wirelessly to be used by AppleTV.
    7. Setup the D-LINK like this

JAILBREAK APPLE TV 2G WITH SEASONPASS

  1. Download SeasonPass HERE
  2. Read Install Directions HERE

INSTALL ATV FLASH

  1. ATV Flash is a great add-on for your jailbroken Apple TV.  It allows you to install other features such as XBMC, NitoTV and CouchSurfer on your Apple TV.  The price for this software is negligible compared to the features available with XBMC alone!
  2. Download ATV Flash HERE
  3. After jailbreaking the Apple TV, install ATV Flash.  You might need to run the ATV Flash install twice to see it displayed on your Apple TV screen.  DO NOT REBOOT THE APPLE TV OR YOU WILL BE LOCKED OUT AND NEED TO BOOTSTRAP YOUR APPLE TV AGAIN TO USE IT.  I find that the bootstrapping works really well, the faster that you can connect the cables while installing the software.

INSTALL THE PLUGINS

  1. I installed NitoTV only.  From there, I used NitoTV to install the other plugins like Overflow, Weather, and XBMC.  You can also use Couchsurfer, but I found that the system doesn’t work properly on all websites, especially if there are pop-ups…so I opted to keep that plug-in deactivated and save ram.
  2. I use Overflow to keep my Apple TV home screen looking neat and organized.  Afterall, even a jailbroken Apple TV should look as seamless as Apple intended Apple TV to look.

SETUP XBMC

(to be continued)

Netflix Error

Netflix error on Apple TV 2g Jailbreak

Getting the error on Apple TV that Netflix can’t connect?

“Netflix is currently unavailable, please try again later”

If your Apple TV is not jailbroken then you just need to remove all of the cables from your ATV and wait 60 seconds as well as turn off or unplug your TV and receivers. Then plug everything back in and you should be good to go.

If you have a jailbroken Apple TV 2G then you will need to remove all of your cables and turn your TV off for 60 seconds. You will then need to bootstrap your Apple TV to reboot with SeasonPass.

It might take 2 or 3 times before it works properly, but it should work.

If you know of another solution, please comment!

You can also read more here

Productivity like a Martial Artist

I’ve been using Omni Focus for a little over a year now….well, since the iPhone came to Canada in 2008.  This program is absolutely amazing.  But, it doesn’t make sense unless you understand what GTD is.  GTD stands for Getting Things Done.  It was created by David Allen.

GTD takes productivity and resource allocation out of your head…..so it relieves your stress.

The first time I did a brain dump to the Inbox….I almost started crying from the relief……a huge weight lifted off my shoulders…almost literally.

My mind was clear….and then I started just Getting Things Done.

So, my OMNI Focus is an amazing tool to allow you to use this productivity mindset.

It rocks because it’s synchronizable to your iphone.  The app is $20…but worth every penny.  Especially since it uses the map and tells you when you are in relation to where your projects can be done.  EX…pick up bananas at the grocery store.  Drop off package at UPS.  As you’re are driving…it will alert you to something that you can “Get Done” in the area.

Check out OMNI Focus HERE

Apple iPhone

Update from iPhone Rocks!

I’m using the wordpress app on my iPhone to write this. It seems that in the past I have been on the road so much that I haven’t had a chance to blog and share as much as I would like. This new feature should help me connect a bit better.
(this is just a test… Excuse the poor content)

New Mac Pro 8-core 2009

I just purchased the new 2009 Mac Pro 2.8Ghz 8-Core with 8 Gigs of Ram, 256mb Radeon graphics card, 320GB boot drive, 1TB media drive, and a NEC 2090UXI monitor.

This system is AMAZING!!

Upgrading from the 24″ iMac to this beast is like driving a smart car and jumping into a Ferrari!  The system is so fast that I can’t keep up with it….or load enough programs to bog it or slow it down at all.  Most of all, it’s really beautiful.  The design team at Apple is amazing.  Every component is accounted for (except for the wireless Airport card…but we’ll get to that in a minute).

I basically got this system to reduce my travelling to and from my studio downtown.  I live in the suburbs and travel over 2 hours each day to go to my office.  Enough is enough.  I bit the bullet and bought the silver bullet.

I got an AMAZING deal from www.Macdoc.ca

This system only cost me $2900!!!  Don’t ask how…and I’m sure he doesn’t have any left at this price…but did I luck out or what??

The system is incredible, although the only problem that I had was figuring out which wireless adapter would do the job.  First I bought the Belkin USB N-band adapter….no luck….not Mac friendly….no drivers.

Then I tried the Linksys PCI adapter, but no luck either….you need a PCI-E  (extreme) adapter.  So before I went back to Best Buy to return this one, I tried Canada Computers and Ron there helped me find the right USB adapter.  We found the D-Link DWA-140 adapter is the best suited USB adapter around.  Although you have to download the Mac driver from their support site : http://www.dlink.ca/products/?tab=3&pid=DWA-140&rev=DWA-140.  It’s a SUPER FAST adapter.  I just can’t justify spending over $200 for an Apple Airport Extreme card when this will do just a good a job for only $60CND.

D-Link DWA-140 N band wireless USB adapter

D-Link DWA-140 N band wireless USB adapter

It receives N signal very well.  I have my Linksys router on the top floor of my home and this picks up the signal at 70% quality or more from the basement!!

Just wanted to let you know about this because if I had this information available today, I probably would have saved several hours going back and forth to the store.

Hope this helps someone who is looking for wireless connections for their Mac Pro.